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Determine the lowest elevation at which the bottom
chord of the truss is to be set against the wall.
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Apply a chalk line 1” above this lowest elevation
line.
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Apply a second chalk line to allow positioning of
the upper insert plate plum with the bottom plate, and in line with
the gang nail plate at the intersecting top chord of the truss.
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Insert each of the 2 insert plates for both the
top and bottom bracket locations, by either sliding them downward
from the top of the form or inserting them horizontally through the
form cuts, so that the large hole perforations of the brackets are
sitting INSIDE the form cavity.
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Exact placement of the insert plates will not be
crucial as long as the cuts in the foam are made at 90 degrees to
the foam face to ensure the bracket faces will always be in plane
and in line with the face of the joist or truss frame.
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After the concrete has been placed and cured long
enough for hanging a truss member, chalk a second line at either the
top or bottom elevation of the truss to be installed. This should be
done with a transit or a laser level.
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Fit the framing member stamped bearing bracket at
the end of the truss as shown.
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Install a temporary rim joist at the underside of
the lowest elevation of the truss by screwing it into the form webs.
This will provide a seat for the truss to sit on until fastened.
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Slide the truss member and stamped bearing
bracket down between form inserts plates ready for anchorage at the
desired height.
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Once the truss is seated on the rim joist, using
the designated #10 self-tapping screws, fasten through both the
insert plate and stamped bearing bracket perforations of the bottom
bracket, as well as fastening through the insert plate, stamped
bearing bracket perforations and gang nail plate at the top bracket
location.